I was raised on the huckleberry. I had no idea for many years that this was unusual until I
discovered that there were people in the world that didn’t even know what a
huckleberry was. Like a blueberry,
they would insist after I described the small purplish berry to them. Nothing like a blueberry, I
insist. It is on a whole other
cosmic level. It has a tart
sweetness that I have never had a blueberry come close to. You are never going to find the
huckleberry languishing in a plastic bin in the grocery store like some
commoner. It insists on being
elusive. The huckleberry is a wild berry that largely seems to reside in the
Northwest, preferably at the end of a bumpy dirt road and several miles of
hiking. Much like myself, it
resists domestication.
As
a community we took pride in being friendly and helping one another but all
that stopped when it came to huckleberry picking sites and elk hunting
grounds. These were sacred family
secrets. This is because the
huckleberry is incredibly tedious to pick, like the worst Easter egg hunt ever.
This was learned one summer when my grandfather forbade my grandmother from
paying $25 per gallon for the huckleberries dutifully picked by the elderly
couple that clearly had a cash crop somewhere. Being a good student of the
Depression, he thought this was a ridiculous price for what a little hard work
couldn’t produce for free. So we made
the long trek to the woods and spent several hours picking. Although my brother
and I in theory provided extra sets of hands, our contribution was small. Our mouths on the other hand had a
distinct purple hue suggesting our productivity was artificially low. By the
time we were done we were covered in dirt, sweat and scratches from digging
through brush. We were all
exhausted and we had barely scratched together a gallon or so of berries. From then on my grandmother was given
permission to buy as many huckleberries as she desired.
The
other challenge of huckleberry picking is the bears. They, too, have a fondness for the berries. They will happily sit in a patch and
gorge without any intention of sharing.
It makes the whole berry picking process a little nerve racking when you
aren’t sure if it is your brother rustling in the bushes or something a bit
fuzzier. It gives a whole new
meaning to organic when you have to pry them from the jaws of a grizzly.
For
years now I have settled for the blueberry, a second rate substitute for the
finer things in life. As if
injected with steroids, they seem to be grown for size over flavor. They are either mushy or tart. My taste buds have grown
nostalgic. So when the woman
checking me in at the campground encouraged me to try the huckleberry ice
cream, there was no question that I would do just that, over and over. Bear claws not included.
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